 |
|
  |
 |
| |
         |
|
 |
|
|
Table of Contents
Questions
you might ask.
1.
I'm a beginner at auto body repair, can I really
learn your method of bare-metal-finishing with The Friction System ... ?
2.
How long does the Heat Shrinking Disc last ... ?
3. I’ve read about your Friction System in many magazines, your
method makes sense to me
and I believe your System
will can be useful on a project car I am working on. I have never done auto body repair before, what tools do you recommend I start out with…..?
4. Why is it important to have The Complete Friction System Kit?....I was thinking that all I need is the Heat Shrinking Disc ... ?
5.
I have been doing bodywork for many years, over 30 years
now. I am very good at metal-finishing using the traditional style and
techniques of pick and file. I can move metal where I want it and I can many
times get the surface primer ready without fillers.
How would the Friction System benefit me... ?
Please read question #1... it relates to all... even
the very experienced.
 | Yes, most
definitely!
Anyone
can learn how to use The Friction System no matter their experience level.
Even if they have never picked up a hammer or dolly, they can learn how to
repair dents by following what is taught in the Training Videos. Our step-by-step Training Videos are very thorough
to teach you a new skill, the skill of bare-metal-finishing. You will be taught the
overall concepts of our new method as related to basic sheetmetal theory. |
| Learn and understand what a dent is, "the definition of a
dent," defining the wavy areas, the high and low spots. What
are they? What causes them? How does one deal with them? Learn about the
damaged metal molecules. How the use of friction heat allows the movement of the molecules
to
realign and become repositioned, so they can return to their original contour. This
will cause the dent to disappear and become a
bare-metal-finished panel. |
| Being that all types of metals are
made up of millions of molecules, when any of these molecules get damaged
and misaligned they all will react to heat this same way. |
| This means The Friction System can work on many
different types of sheetmetal; |
| Thick metal of the old classics (16, 18, 20
gauge) |
| High strength steel panels of the late model
cars (21, 22 gauge) |
| Aluminum body panels and side mouldings
|
| Brass (as in a radiator shell)
|
| Stainless steel panels and body mouldings |
| Our videos are so thorough we include instructions about hammers and dollies
that most people don’t know. Are the faces of your body tools shaped
perfectly?
Being that their shapes get transferred to the panel it is very
important. We show you how to check them, then demonstrate how to fix them.
We explain
where to hold a hammer, how to swing a hammer, how hard to hit the metal
and how to use those techniques correctly on the metal. You will notice that
hammering will become easier and effortless, because you will develop a new
rhythm and swing in hitting your metal. |
| In order to learn these techniques, the Videos will have to be viewed
as many times as necessary. From the feedback we have received; |
A. Hobbyists normally view it 3 - 10 times depending on their
experience.
B. Professionals in the business will view it 2 - 4 times also
depending on their skill level
| You need to start out using our System on a 2" to 3" diameter dent on
an open fender panel where you have access to both front and backside of the
panel. |
| Do not start on a hood, roof or trunk panel.
They are more complicated and tricky to repair when you are beginning.
Some beginners do not realize how easy it is to overheat and over-shrink these
types of panels. You need to practice on smaller dents first, so when you
become better skilled using our Complete System you will have more success on
larger dented panels. |
|
All of the
vital information and detailed instructions covered in the Training Videos must be understood and practiced
before our method will perform for anyone. |
(
Above are
actual scenes from the video set. )
|
Our Friction System users have been giving
us constant feedback
for the last 15 years. . .
This is what they have told us;
|
|
 |
For a Collision Repair Bodyshop
One
Heat Shrinking Disc will last between 1 and 1 ½
years per bodyman.
|
|
For a large Restoration Shop
One Disc will last about 6 months. This
when it is being used by metalmen whose only job is
repairing and straightening body panels, welding in patch panels for rust
repairs and performing custom metalwork. (Such as chopping tops, frenching
headlights, shaving door handles etc.)
|
|
For the hobbyist
A new Disc will be reordered in about
3 to 10 years, depending upon how often they have used it...and how many
friends have borrowed it!
|
|
Be
careful... we've had customers who's friends wouldn't give it back.
|
In the past we sold the Heat Shrinking Disc by itself,
then added some accessories only as customer options. At this time we had
customers who had many mixed results, some never getting it to work at all.
So, out of
customer requests we developed a Training Video Set, then put together "The
KIT" that now produces
the 100% satisfaction of our users today. Now they are taught all the
important concepts and techniques on how to use the System correctly. For our
users that have been doing metalwork for many years, they have expressed to us
that we have changed their way of thinking and how they now approach dent
repair.
|
| Once you
have used our methods and have worn out your first Heat Shrinking Disc, a
replacement disc is available. Only then you will realize that you have
saved hundreds and hundreds of labor hours and if you are a shop just multiple
that by your hourly rate, $40, $60, $80 an hour. The cost of "The KIT" is a
very minimal expense when considering you are investing in yourself to learn
and develop a new skill level of panel beating. |
|
2004
is our 16th year in business, selling tools. Before this our background was been
restoring customer cars for 17 years. During those years we performed ground up
restorations on high end cars. The 911 and 356 Porsches were 90% of our
projects. Our Complete Friction System Kit
evolved after our 10th year in the tool business.
|
|
If you want to achieve the results shown, our users have proven it is vital
to begin with "The KIT". It includes all of the correct items
needed to make our method of bare metal-finishing work. |
|
Our
methods are
easier to master and faster to produce the desired results.
|
"Let us teach you
correctly."
You will soon
learn that... "This is the perfect solution for
bare-metal-finishing."
Read about the amazing results,
others have achieved!
Click here to go to
our Customer Letters.
|
It is very important for our Heat
Shrinking Disc to have the proper backing support when mounted to the body
grinder. We supply the correct 7" polypropylene backing (which is a very
stiff plastic), a 9" fiber support pad and the correct tapered center nut with
a 5/8 x 11 thread. Do not use the 1/4" thick black rubber backing pads.
They flex too much and will allow an unsafe condition.
If the Heat
Shrinking Disc is not properly supported it can develop a crack around the
center nut. We are trying to prevent this problem.
We supply three of our
Strip-It Discs
with an arbor setup for cleaning and stripping body panels to bare metal. We provide the best
stripping discs. They last about 2X longer than comparable
products available in stores. We also use this cleaning disc to
periodically reclean the metal surface throughout the repair process and at
the very end just before primer. It is the best method to clean metal we have
found, no sparks means no metal is being removed.
A can of Blue Dye is included, which
is sometimes applied 2 to 4 times on every dent. This is our trick method to
reveal the high and low areas across the panel surface. (Detailed
instructions are included in "The KIT".) One can of dye will be used in
repairing 15 to 20 dents, at an average size of 12 inches. Extra cans are
available for $11.50 plus minimal shipping.
To complete "The KIT", five 9"
- 80
grit abrasive discs are included, to be used in the final phase of our
method of bare-metal-finishing.
Our abrasive discs are heat treated and stiffer, so they mount up flatter. Our users always come back us to reorder this product,
since they find it difficult to locate at their local stores. Extra 80 grit
discs are $2.10 each.
Here's a Tip:
To make all sandpaper, masking tape and abrasive discs last for many years,
store them in a refrigerator.
No moisture... No
drying out.... Means no warpage.
It could last
forever. We've had 2" masking tape last 10 years!
|
|
It can cut your current repair labor time by
50% or less. There are few of you experts
who can do the pick and file technique effectively. Usually it takes many hours, sometimes days, even weeks to repair a
panel. This method of repair is very time consuming and tedious, which
sometimes can become very frustrating.
According to our users who are ex-pick-and-filers, applying the principles that are taught in
our Training Videos have cut their normal repair time by at least half!
The reasons are:
|
They do not use the torch
|
|
They
do not use the pick
& file
anymore.
|
|
By using some new and refined
techniques of hammer and dolly they are physically faster and more accurate.
|
|
They have
learned to shrink the stretched areas more accurately and quicker than ever
before.
|
|
The hard-to-control "oil can" problems
can
disappear in 10 to 15 minutes. All these are reasons why they can do metalwork so much faster.
|
|
They all said, "I was skeptical
at
first, when I was reading about the System.
After thinking about the heating theory, it does make sense on how it could
work".
|
|
Now they are
all
glad to use a System that
works....working exactly as described.
|
|
For instance, we
have very skilled customers who have told us that their repair time on a badly rusted-out
lower section of a Porsche door skin and door jam normally took them 40 repair hours. Now they
have been able to do two doors in one week.
That's 80 billed labor hours in one week: 80 X $45
per hour = $3,600.00
Another example, was a 1965 - 356
Porsche rear panel damage, caused by a bumper impact, caved in from taillight to taillight.
The normal repair time would be between 25 to 32 hours. Customers have told us they
have been able to repair this in only one day. This was done in 8 hours and
they were able to apply just primer with a little glazing putty in certain
areas where the System could not be used. An overall skim coat of any filler
was not necessary.
That's 25 billed labor hours in one day: 25 X $45
per hour = $1,125.00
|
It is a more accurate
and controlled method to move the metal back to where it belongs. It can move
it exactly back to it's original position. The old style pick and file
technique is not the perfect method, because metal is being filing off, making
the sheetmetal thinner in an uneven pattern. Sometimes, filing so much, it is
possible to file completely through the panel. Even though some feel that they
have a fair amount of control over the panel with this method, by using the
techniques of The Friction System our users have achieved complete control
over the metal throughout the repair process. When you lose this control
you stop and apply bondo or filler.
|
The goal is always try to
stay in control of the metal.
Copyright © 2004 [Sunchaser Tools]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 08/28/07.
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
